TRIP REPORTS - ON ROPE

________________________________________ Photos ________________________________________
 Common Crags     Rock Reports   Ice Reports 
Alphabet Crag Morningside - September 14, 2008      Valley of the Birds - December 20, 2009
Heart Creek Yam Bluffs - July 21, 2015
Grassi Lakes Wasootch Creek - August 19, 2015
Wasootch Creek
Yam Bluffs








Climbing Log

Current Records
Average current level of confidence:
    5.7-5.8

Highest grade yet flashed -
    5.9 - Fossil Wall (A8, Wasootch Creek), Unnamed (A12, Wasootch Creek)

Highest grade yet lead -
    5.9 - Fossil Wall (A8, Wasootch Creek), Unnamed (A12, Wasootch Creek)

Highest grade yet climbed -
    5.10a - Chip Butty (Bunny Hill, Heart Creek), Rat in a Cage (Bunny Hill, Heart Creek) - short routes

Most Pitches -
    4 - Morningside (5.7) at McGillivray Slabs. Led second and fourth pitch


History
Climbed at:
    Wasootch Creek - A, B, D, E, F, G slabs
    Heart Creek - first rock, bunny hill, heart and sole, solstice
    Ghost River - once, years ago, somewhere on Phantom Crag
    McGillivray Slabs - morningside
    Grassi Lakes - golf course, gardener's wall, real good time
    Alphabet Crag
    Smoke Bluffs (Squamish) - Burgers & Fries, Neat and Cool
    Murrin (Squamish) - Zoe, Up Among the Firs
    Cheakamus Canyon (Squamish) - Well of Souls

Date Location Climb Grade Type Notes
 October 11, 2003  Phantom Crag (Ghost) ? ? toprope intro weekend with Pneuma
May 28, 2008 Wasootch Creek F8
G3 - Bubbles
5.7
5.7
clean toprope
on toprope
climbed twice by different routes
neat route. no holds. :)
June 13, 2008 Wasootch Creek A9
F8
5.8
5.7
on toprope
lead
fell. tough first moves, easy last 60%
success! first outdoor lead - previously toproped
June 18, 2008 Wasootch Creek A15
A14
A8 - Fossil Wall
 
5.7 (-)
5.6
5.9
 
lead
clean toprope
lead
 
EASY 5.7 - stairsteps
slight overhang - trickier for me
barely, but accomplished - highest lead and route yet. Tough only at top.
laurier, marshall, kyle also worked A10 - tough 5.7.
June 25, 2008 Wasootch Creek F7
F4
5.8
5.8
lead
clean toprope
fell. :(
Interesting after the heavily polished first few moves.
June 29, 2008 Heart Creek
 ~First Rock


 ~Bunny Hill

Trio
Less than Zero
Come As You Are
You Oughtta Know
Rat in a Cage
Chip Butty
Simple

5.6
5.8
5.9
5.9+
5.10a
5.10a
5.4

lead (clips in)
toprope
clean toprope
toprope
toprope
clean toprope
lead




fell on crux move
fell. very close - should be able to do this fresh.
highest grade yet climbed (but not led)
Neat little traversing route.
July 2, 2008 Heart Creek
 ~Solstice

 ~Bunny Hill

---
Rat in a Cage

---
5.10a

falling
clean toprope

fell all over Electric Koolaid Ocean and Herbivore Dance. No-one got anywhere.
Came back to make up for previous twice falling. Success!
July 16, 2008 Wasootch Creek A17
D1
5.5
5.4
lead
lead
neat little supereasy route.
A good one for lead instruction.
July 26, 2008 Heart Creek
 ~First Rock




 ~Heart and Sole

Less than Zero
Potentilla Pillar (first pitch)
Trio
Heartline
Itchy Jig

5.8
5.8
5.6 (-)
5.7
5.7

lead (clips in)
lead (clips in)
lead
lead
lead


only up to first anchor, plus traverse.
may have strayed slightly off-route at crux, hence (-). First mulitpitch - with next.
cool route - crux at sketchy edge of ability. First multipitch - following above.
good slab practice. interesting route
July 30, 2008 Wasootch Creek A19
A7
A6
5.6
5.7
5.7
switch leads
lead
lead
led first and third pitch, seconded second. First proper multipitch.

may have strayed slightly off route at crux
August 6, 2008 Wasootch Creek A18
A11
A12
5.6
5.9
5.9
lead
lead
lead
short. interesting clambering.
fell and finished. tough first two bolts.
easy 5.9 - sustained lower grade. fun.
August 13, 2008 Heart Creek
 ~First Rock

Potentilla Pillar

5.8

lead

27m! really fun.
August 27, 2008 Heart Creek
 ~First Rock

Back to Zero

5.9

clean toprope

have to lead this next time. ...evenings getting shorter.
September 10, 2008 Wasootch Creek B18
B?
5.8
5.(7?)
lead
lead
fell twice at lower crux. ugly, ugly climbing. I suck.
this bolted route is not in the book, but runs over shown trad routes from 5.5-7.
September 14, 2008 McGillivray Slabs Morningside 5.7 switch leads four pitches - a real multipitch climb! - 140m+
May 21, 2009 Wasootch Creek D2
A8.5
5.5
5.7+?
lead
onsight
teaching the feet to trust slabs again
shiny new route - no info except obvious bolts. Fun!
May 31, 2009 Grassi Lakes
 ~Golf Course


 ~Gardener's Wall

Hole in One
I'd Rather be Golfing
unknown
Horrorculture
Gardener's Question Time

5.7
5.5
5.6
5.8
5.9ish

lead
lead
lead
lead
top rope

An excellent, fun, easy route.
Such crazy different rock to get used to!

shaky, tricky near top, but made it
Finished one clip from top, at anchors for Rocky Road to the left. oops.
June 3, 2009 Wasootch Creek A17
A15
5.5
5.7
lead
lead
Jeff and Kevin out and leading for the first time.
June 11, 2009 Wasootch Creek A14
A13
A9
5.6
5.5
5.8
lead
lead
lead
fun. little bump to surmount.
interesting wander at top.
made it this time!
June 18, 2009 Grassi Lakes
 ~Golf Course

 ~Real Good Time

Chip Shot
Unnamed

5.6
5.9

lead
clean toprope

a rather airy first clip...
should have pushed myself and led it.
June 23, 2009 Wasootch Creek F1
F6ish
F2
5.7
5.10a
5.6
toprope
toprope
toprope
interesting. mega-slab.
cheated the bottom part.
really scary high second bolt. wimpy today on the superslab.
June 30, 2009 Grassi Lakes
 ~Gardener's Wall

Holes to Heaven
Lumpy Lane
Rocky Road
Pothole Alley

5.10a
5.9
5.9
5.9

clean toprope
clean toprope
lead
lead

this route has no right to be a 10a - equal to surrounding 9s.

kiddy route - good confidence builder at my upper skill level
fell near top. should have made it
August 6, 2009 Yam Bluffs ? 5.5? clean toprope in approach shoes.. (course)
August 7, 2009 Grassi Lakes
 ~Golf Course

Elk Don't Golf
Hole in One

5.5
5.7

lead
clean toprope
course
August 8, 2009 Alphabet Crag Echo Reach 5.8 toprope neat crag!
August 10, 2009 Grassi Lakes
 ~Golf Course

Tiger

5.5

lead

teaching..
August 25, 2009 Heart Creek
 ~First Rock

Potentilla Pillar

5.8

lead

Too long without challenging climbing - right sketched!
August 28, 2009 Wasootch Creek A19 5.6 switch leads led pitch two for a change
September 12, 2009 Alphabet Crag The Delta Farce
Charlie the Chaplin
Future Golf Course
Sweet Juliet
5.8
5.9
5.10a
5.8
lead
lead
lead
lead
overhang much easier than appearances
might have strayed - but fun route!
fell, dammit. finished it properly
very straaaange formation.
September 16, 2009 McGillivray Slabs Morningside 5.7 switch leads (1/3) Laurier reclimbed pitch 3 twice by headlamp after stuck rope..
December 20, 2009 Valley of the Birds (ice) Yellowbird Access WI2 solo/second/toprope Interesting series of easy falls.
January 9, 2010 King Creek Canyon Big drip
Gully route
WI3
WI3
toprope
toprope
I don't know if there are names for these routes.
March 27, 2010 Yam Bluffs Unspecified couple of easy climbs 5.6-5.8 toprope anchor teaching day
May 7, 2010 Smoke Bluffs (Squamish)
 ~Burgers& Fries



 ~Neat and Cool

Unnamed between routes (25m)
Unnamed between routes (25m)
estimated route (25m)
Peaches and Cream(20m)
Cornflakes (22m)

5.6
5.8
5.7
5.10a
5.6

toprope
toprope
toprope
toprope, 1 fall
toprope

Most routes set up for trad climbing, but top-accessible
we didn't really follow the exact trad routes
all granite slab - very different from climbing limestone

Really fun.
May 8, 2010 Murrin (Squamish)
 ~Zoe

 ~Up Among the Firs

Oscar's Slab (12m)
Zoe (25m)
Chok'in A Grogan (29m)
Zeasi (15m)

5.8
5.9
5.8
5.7

lead
toprope
toprope
toprope

poor form - took an easy out on the side. Sketched on the slabby granite.
briefly hung. had some challenging pulls, then fun problem-solving
fun slab with tiny ledges. Should have led.
neat route. Not difficult.
May 9, 2010 Cheakamus Canyon (Squamish)
 ~Well of Souls

Professor Ravenwood (10m)
Marion Ravenwood

5.8
5.9

toprope
toprope

neat slabby route with stemming to rock overhang behind
May 13, 2010 Wasootch Creek ?
June 13, 2010 Wasootch Creek ?
August 4, 2010 Wasootch Creek E1 5.5 toprope teaching at D&E
August 5, 2010 Yam Bluffs unspecified routes easy toprope teaching
August 6, 2010 Wasootch Creek B slab toprope teaching at B
August 9-11, 2010 Wasootch Creek B, D slabs toprope teaching and camping
June 29, 2011 Wasootch A15
A16
5.7
5.6
lead
lead
photography
July 21, 2015 Yam Bluffs unspecified routes easy toprope photography
August 19, 2015 Wasootch Creek A16
A15
5.6
5.7
lead
lead
photography


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